Bahrain is the smallest country in this guide and the most historically layered. Al Khamis Mosque is traditionally dated to the late seventh century, which makes it the oldest in the Gulf; Beit Al Quran holds one of the best collections of Qur'anic manuscripts anywhere; and three UNESCO sites - the Qal'at al-Bahrain fort, the Dilmun burial mounds and the Muharraq pearling path - are all within half an hour of Manama. Four days is plenty.
Around 74% Muslim, with a Shia majority among Bahraini nationals and a large expatriate population. All meat is halal by law; alcohol is legal and available in licensed venues, which makes Bahrain the most relaxed of the Gulf states after Dubai.
A purpose-built museum of Qur'anic manuscripts - Kufic parchments from the 7th and 8th centuries, miniature Qur'ans, examples on rice grains, and manuscripts from Persia, India, China and Andalusia. One of the best collections in the world.
Twin minarets over the ruins of a mosque whose foundation is traditionally dated to the reign of Umar ibn Abd al-Aziz, making it among the oldest in the entire Gulf region.
One of the largest mosques in the world, with a fibreglass dome and an Austrian crystal chandelier, and free guided tours for non-Muslims six days a week with robes provided.
Qal'at al-Bahrain, capital of the Bronze Age Dilmun civilisation; the Dilmun burial mounds, tens of thousands of them; and the Muharraq pearling path, the last surviving complete pearl-diving economy.
Bahrain's restaurant culture punches well above the island's size, with strong Bahraini, Iranian, Indian and Levantine cooking and a genuine café tradition.
The island is 50 km long. You can see the Grand Mosque, the Qur'an museum, the old fort and the pearling path in two days without hurrying.
Two days for Manama's mosques, museums and souq, one for Muharraq and the pearling path, one for the Dilmun sites and the south of the island.
Al Fateh - Beit Al Quran - Bab Al Bahrain
Pearling Path - Sheikh Isa House - Arad Fort
Qal'at al-Bahrain - A'ali mounds - Al Khamis
Tree of Life - Riffa Fort - Bahrain Fort sunset
Al Fateh runs the most developed non-Muslim visitor programme in the Gulf after Abu Dhabi. Al Khamis is a ruin and a museum rather than a working mosque. Bahrain has both Sunni and Shia congregational mosques, often on adjacent streets.
One of the largest mosques in the world, holding 7,000, with the largest fibreglass dome ever built and an Austrian crystal chandelier. Free guided tours for non-Muslims Saturday to Thursday, robes provided, and a library of 7,000 volumes.
Twin minarets over the excavated foundations of a mosque traditionally dated to the reign of Umar ibn Abd al-Aziz in the early 8th century, making it the oldest in the region. A modern visitor centre interprets the site.
A 19th-century mosque in the old city with a distinctive stepped minaret, among the oldest still in use in the capital.
A large working mosque near the diplomatic area and the souq, convenient for prayer while sightseeing in the centre.
A small merchant-built mosque on the UNESCO Pearling Path, part of the Siyadi complex, showing how religious and commercial life sat together in the pearl economy.
One of the main Shia congregational mosques in the capital, with characteristic Persian-influenced tilework.
A restored early-20th-century mosque in the old quarter, in the coral-and-plaster construction typical of Gulf building before concrete.
Attached to the Grand Mosque, this is the national Islamic library, with 7,000 volumes and manuscripts, open to researchers and visitors on the tour.
Beside the old Al Hidaya school, the first modern school in the Gulf, founded in 1919 - a small mosque with an outsized place in Bahraini history.
Built by one of Bahrain's prominent merchant families, in the centre of the old commercial district near the souq.
A purpose-built museum of Qur'anic manuscripts - Kufic parchments from the 7th and 8th centuries, illuminated Persian, Indian, Chinese and Andalusian Qur'ans, miniature copies and calligraphy on rice grains. Free entry; among the finest collections anywhere.
An artificial mound with 4,000 years of occupation layers, the capital of the Dilmun civilisation, topped by a Portuguese fort. The site museum is one of the best in the Gulf.
Tens of thousands of Bronze Age burial tumuli - the largest prehistoric cemetery in the world - dating from around 2200 to 1750 BCE.
A 3.5 km route through merchants' houses, warehouses, a mosque and the seafront where the pearling dhows moored. The last surviving complete example of the pearling economy that sustained the Gulf before oil.
Dilmun artefacts, burial mound reconstructions, the pearling galleries and a hall of traditional trades and dhow building. Compact and well done.
A network of restored heritage houses turned into small museums and cultural venues - the Abdullah Al Zayed press house, the Kurar House of gold embroidery, the Nukhida House.
All meat is halal by law. Bahraini cooking shares the Gulf repertoire with a distinctly Persian and Indian accent, and the island has the liveliest café and restaurant scene of the smaller Gulf states.
Spiced rice with fish, chicken or lamb, built on dried lime and baharat. The Bahraini version leans on local hamour and safi from the Gulf.
Sweet rice cooked with date syrup and cardamom, served alongside fried fish. The sweet-savoury pairing is specifically Bahraini.
Sweet saffron and cardamom vermicelli under a savoury omelette. Breakfast, and one of the great Gulf contradictions.
Fried pastry triangles of spiced meat, cheese or vegetable, made in enormous quantities through Ramadan.
Whole roast lamb on spiced rice with nuts and raisins, served at celebrations and large family meals.
A dense, translucent saffron and cardamom sweet studded with nuts, cooked in a copper pot and served in a small dish with coffee. The national sweet, and quite different from Indian halva.
Flatbread baked on the wall of a clay oven and sold hot from bakeries across the island - the best breakfast in Bahrain for a few fils.
Hamour, safi, chanad and subaiti, grilled or fried and served with rice and a tamarind sauce. Bahrain's shallow seas are its larder.
Boiled chickpeas and fava beans with cumin and lime, sold from carts and eaten as a snack.
Cardamom tea with evaporated milk, from a drive-through window for 200 fils. As across the Gulf.
Bahrain has deep Persian links - chelo kebab, baghali polo and fesenjan appear on menus across the island.
Bahrain was famous for date palms long before oil; dibis, the syrup pressed from them, appears in muhammar and halwa.
Open since around 1950 and serving breakfast food all day - balaleet, foul, eggs with tomato and enormous quantities of khubz. A Bahraini institution and always full.
Bahraini and Gulf dishes - machboos, ghoozi, harees - in a traditional setting with family rooms. The clearest introduction to the national cuisine.
Modern Bahraini and Gulf cooking in a stylish room in the Adliya arts district. Excellent machboos and a good place for a proper dinner out.
A long-established Bahraini café serving breakfast dishes and sweets, popular with locals in the morning.
Levantine grills and mezze at fair prices, busy with families every evening. Reliable and everywhere.
A French-style patisserie and brasserie that has become a Manama institution, good for breakfast and afternoon cake.
The restaurant and gallery district - several dozen restaurants across every cuisine in a few walkable blocks. Some are licensed, most are not; check as you go.
Cheap Indian, Yemeni and Bahraini eating inside and around the souq - biryani, mandi, fresh juice. The best value on the island.
The malls have extensive international dining, all halal, and are where most of the island eats in the summer heat.
Pick your Gulf fish from the ice and have it grilled with rice and salad. The freshest and cheapest seafood on the island.
Long-running Iranian restaurant reflecting Bahrain's Persian links - chelo kebab, stews and saffron rice.
Yemeni mandi and haneeth in curtained family rooms, generous and very cheap.
Beside the handicraft centre and the Al Jasra house, a quiet stop on the western side of the island.
Showaiter and the older family halwa makers cook Bahraini halwa in copper pots in the open. Watch, then buy a box.
Bahrain has over a thousand mosques on an island of 50 kilometres. Both Sunni and Shia congregational mosques are common, frequently on adjacent streets.
| Where | Prayer facilities |
|---|---|
| Bahrain International Airport | Prayer rooms airside and landside with ablution facilities, recently rebuilt with the new terminal. |
| Malls | City Centre Bahrain, Seef Mall, The Avenues and Marassi Galleria all have signposted prayer rooms. |
| Al Fateh Grand Mosque | Open for all five prayers and for visitor tours between them. The largest prayer space on the island. |
| Souqs and old quarters | The Manama and Muharraq souqs each have several working mosques within a few minutes' walk. |
| Heritage sites | Qal'at al-Bahrain, the National Museum and the Pearling Path visitor centre all have prayer rooms. |
| Petrol stations | Stations on the main highways and on the King Fahd Causeway have prayer rooms. |
| Hotels | Qibla markers and prayer mats are standard; larger hotels have a musalla. |
Manama's districts differ in character rather than distance - nothing is more than 20 minutes from anything else. Muharraq is the quiet, historic alternative.
The mall and business district on the western waterfront, with most of the large international hotels. Convenient, unatmospheric, and good with families.
The arts and dining district around Block 338 - small hotels, galleries and several dozen restaurants within walking distance. Livelier in the evenings.
Near the Al Fateh Grand Mosque, with apartment hotels and a wide range of restaurants. Busy at weekends with visitors from across the causeway.
Cheaper hotels near Bab Al Bahrain, walkable to the souq and Beit Al Quran, and where the island's everyday life is.
Restored heritage houses on the Pearling Path now operating as small guesthouses. Quieter, more conservative and by far the most interesting place to stay.
Reclaimed islands with beaches, marinas and apartment hotels, twenty minutes from the airport.
The quieter side of the island near the handicraft centre and the Tree of Life road, with a handful of resorts.
Cheaper than Qatar or the UAE for hotels, with the usual Gulf caveat about the currency's value. All figures are per person per day unless stated, excluding international flights.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | BHD 20-35 | BHD 50-90 | BHD 180+ |
| Food (3 meals) | BHD 6-12 | BHD 20-38 | BHD 80+ |
| Car hire per day | BHD 8-14 | BHD 18-28 | BHD 60 (with driver) |
| Attractions | BHD 0 (mosques, Beit Al Quran) | BHD 3-8 (museums) | BHD 30+ |
| Excursions | BHD 10-20 | BHD 30-60 | BHD 150+ |
| Daily total per person | BHD 35-55 | BHD 85-150 | BHD 300+ |
A short, excellent winter and a very humid summer, made worse by the shallow sea on all sides.
| Period | Weather | Verdict for a halal trip |
|---|---|---|
| November-March | 16-25C, dry | The season. Ideal for the Pearling Path, the Dilmun sites and the souqs. Peak rates, particularly at weekends. |
| April-May | 28-36C | Warming fast, with the Formula 1 weekend in this window. Still workable early and late in the day. |
| June-September | 38-45C, very humid | Severe, with the humidity from the surrounding shallow sea making it worse than the temperature suggests. Indoor itinerary, and hotel rates at their lowest. |
| October | 30-36C | The shoulder - heat easing, and the outdoor season reopening towards the end of the month. |
The questions Muslim travellers ask most often before booking.