For most Muslim travellers Saudi Arabia means Makkah and Madinah, and that remains the heart of any trip. But since the tourist visa opened in 2019 the rest of the country has become reachable: Jeddah's coral-stone old town, the Nabataean tombs at Hegra, the mud-brick first Saudi capital at Diriyah, and the mountains of Asir. This guide covers the ziyarah sites in both holy cities, the practicalities of Umrah permits and the Haramain train, and a week that combines the two.
Everything in the country is halal and alcohol-free by law, so food is never a question. What takes planning is Umrah permits, the summer heat, and the fact that Makkah and Madinah's central precinct are closed to non-Muslims.
Masjid al-Haram and Masjid an-Nabawi are the reason most Muslims come, and nothing else in travel compares. Umrah can now be performed on an ordinary tourist visa.
Quba, the first mosque built in Islam; Masjid al-Qiblatain, where the qibla changed mid-prayer; Uhud and the martyrs' cemetery; the Trench. All within a short drive of Madinah's centre.
Makkah to Madinah in two and a half hours at 300 km/h, via Jeddah and King Abdulaziz airport. It has completely changed how a combined trip works.
More than a hundred monumental Nabataean tombs carved into sandstone outcrops in an empty desert valley - the same civilisation as Petra, with almost none of the crowds.
At-Turaif, the mud-brick capital of the first Saudi state, and Al-Balad, Jeddah's coral-stone merchant quarter with its carved rawasheen balconies. Both UNESCO sites, both recently restored.
No alcohol to navigate, prayer facilities everywhere, an overwhelmingly new road and airport network, and a tourism apparatus built specifically for Muslim visitors.
Umrah at the centre, with Jeddah's old town at the start and AlUla at the end. The Haramain train links Jeddah, Makkah and Madinah; AlUla is a short domestic flight from Madinah or Riyadh.
King Abdulaziz Airport - Al-Balad - Corniche
Miqat - Masjid al-Haram - tawaf and sa'i
Jabal al-Nour - Jabal Thawr - Makkah Museum
Makkah station - Masjid an-Nabawi
Quba - Qiblatain - Uhud - Baqi
Madinah - AlUla - Hegra
AlUla Oasis - Dadan - departure
Makkah and Madinah are closed to non-Muslims. Elsewhere in the kingdom, mosques are working buildings rather than visitor attractions, and there is no tradition of tours - pray there, or admire the exterior.
The Sacred Mosque around the Kaaba, the largest mosque in the world, currently able to hold over two million worshippers. Open continuously. The mataf is least crowded between roughly 1am and 4am.
The Prophet's Mosque, built by the Prophet himself and expanded for fourteen centuries since. Contains the Rawdah and the Prophet's tomb. The retractable courtyard umbrellas open at sunrise.
Founded on the Prophet's arrival in Madinah in 622. A hadith reports that praying two rak'ah here carries the reward of an Umrah. Recently expanded and ten minutes from the Haram.
The mosque of the two qiblas, where the revelation to turn towards Makkah came during the prayer itself and the congregation turned mid-rak'ah. The old second mihrab has been removed in the modern rebuild.
The nearest miqat for anyone already inside Makkah who wishes to enter ihram for a further Umrah. Open all night, with changing facilities and taxis waiting outside.
A cluster of small mosques at the site of the Battle of the Trench, now consolidated under the large Khandaq mosque. Part of the standard ziyarah circuit.
White, domed and built on piles over the Red Sea so that it appears to float at high tide. On the Corniche and open to visitors of any faith outside prayer times.
A 1980s building by the Egyptian architect Abdel-Wahed El-Wakil, widely regarded as one of the best modern mosques in the Arab world - traditional forms handled with real skill.
On the old musalla ground where the Prophet is reported to have prayed the Eid prayer and the prayer for rain. A short walk west of the Prophet's Mosque.
The main congregational mosque of the capital, beside Masmak Fort and Deira Square in the old centre.
The mud-brick mosques of the first Saudi state's capital, restored as part of the At-Turaif heritage district. Architecturally plain Najdi work, which is the point.
The mosque on the plain of Arafat where the Hajj sermon is delivered on the Day of Arafah. Empty and open for most of the year.
The historic merchant quarter, built from Red Sea coral stone with carved teak rawasheen balconies to catch the sea breeze. Naseef House, where King Abdulaziz stayed, is open to visitors. Under long-term restoration.
The mud-brick capital of the first Saudi state, destroyed in 1818 and now restored as a heritage district with museums and the Bujairi Terrace restaurant quarter alongside.
111 Nabataean rock-cut tombs from the first century CE, the southern capital of the same kingdom that built Petra. Access by guided tour only.
A canyon wall covered in Dadanitic, Thamudic, Nabataean and Minaic inscriptions - effectively an open-air library of pre-Islamic Arabian writing.
Eight galleries from pre-history through the Prophet's mission and the three Saudi states. The best single orientation to the country's history, and strong on the Hijaz.
Scale models of the Prophet's Mosque through every expansion, the old city walls and the Hijaz railway. Genuinely useful before or after ziyarah.
Everything is halal, so the only question is what to try. Saudi food splits regionally: Najdi from the centre, Hijazi from the Red Sea coast with its Egyptian, Indian and Levantine trade influences, and Asiri from the southern mountains.
The national dish: spiced rice cooked in meat stock with chicken, lamb or camel, finished with raisins and almonds and eaten from a communal platter.
Meat and rice cooked in an underground pit oven so the fat drips onto the rice. Yemeni in origin, ubiquitous in Saudi Arabia.
A Hijazi dish from Taif - rice slow-cooked in milk and broth to a risotto-like consistency, topped with chicken and a slick of ghee.
Crushed wheat cooked with yoghurt and meat into a thick savoury porridge. Najdi comfort food, especially in winter.
Thin pastry folded around spiced mince, leek and egg and griddled flat. Hijazi street food, and a Ramadan fixture.
Stewed fava beans with a tandoor-baked Afghan-style flatbread. The standard breakfast, eaten everywhere from Jeddah to Riyadh.
Wheat and meat beaten together for hours into a smooth, savoury paste. Ramadan and celebration food across the Gulf.
Rich, lean and slightly sweet. Camel milk is sold fresh in supermarkets and is worth trying once; it is an acquired taste.
Crisp fried dough balls soaked in date syrup. Iftar food, sold from carts during Ramadan.
Mashed dates or banana with crumbled bread, ghee and cream. Hijazi dessert or breakfast, depending on who you ask.
Pale, cardamom-heavy coffee served in small handleless cups with dates. Refusing the first cup is rude; covering the cup with your hand ends the round.
The dark, soft dates of Madinah, with specific virtue mentioned in hadith. Sold at the Madinah date market alongside safawi, sukkari and ambar.
The fried chicken chain that is a genuine Saudi institution. Broasted chicken, garlic sauce, and queues at every branch including inside the Haram complexes. Cheap and open late.
Charcoal-grilled chicken with garlic sauce and flatbread, the other national fast-food chain. Reliable everywhere.
Najdi cooking in a reconstructed mud-brick courtyard house - jareesh, marqooq, qursan, served on the floor in private majlis rooms. The best introduction to central Saudi food.
A large, inexpensive chain doing kabsa and mandi properly. Family sections in every branch, and portions built for sharing.
Modern Saudi cooking - reinterpreted jareesh, saleeg and camel - on the terrace overlooking the floodlit mud-brick walls of At-Turaif. Book ahead.
Contemporary Najdi tasting menus in the same restaurant district. The most serious cooking in Riyadh, and the setting is extraordinary.
Red Sea fish grilled or fried to order with sayadieh rice. Jeddah's seafood is the best in the country and this is the long-standing address for it.
Hijazi home cooking - foul, mutabbaq, saleeg - in the old town. Unglamorous and exactly right after a walk around Al-Balad.
The Corniche is lined with Levantine and Egyptian restaurants with sea-facing terraces, open very late. All halal, all alcohol-free, all family-friendly.
The malls ringing both Harams have extensive food courts open around the clock, with Turkish, Indonesian, Pakistani, Indian and Levantine options for the pilgrim traffic.
Not a restaurant but the place to buy ajwa, safawi and sukkari dates, date-stuffed pastries and Zamzam-packed gift boxes. Prices are better than in the hotel arcades.
Rooftop dining on top of the mirrored concert hall, with a view down the valley. Expensive and the most memorable setting in AlUla.
Riyadh's mall dining is extensive, international and uniformly halal - useful when travelling with children or in the summer heat.
Coffee with cardamom and honey, and areeka, in the painted stone tower houses of the southern mountains. Worth the detour for the setting alone.
The whole country stops for prayer. Shops and restaurants close for roughly 20-30 minutes at each of the five prayers, though enforcement has relaxed considerably since 2019.
| Where | Prayer facilities |
|---|---|
| Everywhere | Every mall, petrol station, office building, airport and motorway stop has a musalla with full ablution facilities, separated by gender. This is the least-planned aspect of a Saudi trip. |
| Jeddah and Riyadh airports | Large prayer halls in every terminal, airside and landside. Jeddah's Hajj terminal has dedicated facilities on a different scale entirely. |
| Haramain train stations | All five stations have prayer halls, and the train schedule is built around prayer times. Trains pause at stations across prayer where practical. |
| Masjid al-Haram | Open continuously. Zamzam dispensers throughout, wheelchairs and electric carts available for tawaf and sa'i, and dedicated women's prayer areas. |
| Masjid an-Nabawi | Open continuously except for a short closure after isha. Rawdah access is permit-only through Nusuk, with separate men's and women's time slots. |
| Hotels | Qibla markers, prayer mats and in-room Qur'ans are standard. Hotels ringing the Harams broadcast the adhan and the prayer directly into the rooms. |
| AlUla and remote sites | Prayer rooms at the visitor centres, Winter Park and the main shuttle stops. Carry a mat for the desert sites. |
In the holy cities, location is everything and is priced accordingly - the distance from a Haram gate is the single biggest factor in your bill. Elsewhere, the hotel sector is new, international and unremarkable in a good way.
Hotels directly on the Haram, with a gate within a few minutes' walk. The most expensive option by a wide margin, and worth it for an older traveller or a short stay.
Two to four kilometres out, with free shuttle buses running to the Haram around the clock. Half the price or less; the trade-off is the journey at 3am.
The ring immediately around the Prophet's Mosque is dense with hotels at every price level, almost all within a five-minute walk of a gate. Madinah is markedly cheaper than Makkah.
Al-Balad for heritage boutique stays in restored coral houses; the Corniche for modern hotels with sea views and easy airport access.
Everything from a restored mud-brick guesthouse in the old town to high-end tented resorts in the sandstone canyons. Book far ahead for the winter season.
Olaya for business hotels and the malls; the Diriyah side for the heritage district and the best restaurants in the capital.
Cool mountain air at 2,200 metres, painted stone villages and hiking. The Saudi summer escape, and completely different from the rest of the country.
Umrah costs are dominated by how close you sleep to the Haram; everything else is mid-priced Gulf. All figures are per person per day unless stated, excluding international flights.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | SAR 150-300 | SAR 400-800 | SAR 1,500+ (Haram-facing) |
| Food (3 meals) | SAR 50-90 | SAR 150-280 | SAR 500+ |
| Local transport | SAR 20-50 (shuttle) | SAR 80-150 (Uber) | SAR 500 (private car) |
| Ziyarah / attractions | SAR 0-60 | SAR 150-350 (Hegra tour) | SAR 800+ |
| Haramain train (Makkah-Madinah) | SAR 150 (economy) | SAR 150-250 | SAR 350 (business) |
| Daily total per person | SAR 280-450 | SAR 700-1,300 | SAR 2,500+ |
The Hijaz is hot for eight months of the year. Winter is both the most comfortable season and the busiest for Umrah.
| Period | Weather | Verdict for a halal trip |
|---|---|---|
| November-February | 18-28C, dry | The best weather and the peak Umrah season. Book hotels and the Haramain train well ahead. |
| March-April | 25-35C | Still comfortable, and AlUla is at its best. Ramadan often falls here in the coming years - expect very high demand. |
| May-September | 38-48C | Severe heat in Makkah, Madinah and Jeddah. Cheapest hotel rates, but plan almost everything for after maghrib. Asir and Taif are the escape. |
| October | 30-38C, easing | The shoulder. Heat is dropping, AlUla's season is opening, and prices have not yet reached winter levels. |
The questions Muslim travellers ask most often before booking.