Oman is what the Gulf looks like without towers. Building height is restricted, the architecture is Omani rather than international, and the interior is a country of mud-brick forts, date oases and canyons with water in them. The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat opens to non-Muslims every morning and is worth the flight. Salalah in the far south turns green under a monsoon every summer, which is unlike anywhere else in Arabia.
Around 86% Muslim, with an Ibadi majority - a school found almost nowhere else - alongside Sunni and Shia communities. All meat is halal and alcohol is confined to licensed hotels.
Open to non-Muslim visitors every morning except Friday. A single Persian carpet covering 4,300 square metres, a Swarovski chandelier fourteen metres tall, and a courtyard of quite exceptional restraint.
Wadi Shab, Wadi Bani Khalid and Wadi Tiwi are canyons with permanent turquoise pools in the middle of a desert country. Modest swimwear is the norm and the water is cold.
Jebel Shams reaches 3,000 metres with a canyon under it that Omanis call the Grand Canyon of Arabia, and Jebel Akhdar grows roses and pomegranates on terraces.
Nizwa, Bahla and Jabrin are mud-brick fortresses in date oases, and the Land of Frankincense sites around Salalah are UNESCO-listed remains of the trade that made ancient Arabia rich.
Between late June and early September the Dhofar monsoon turns the mountains behind Salalah green, with waterfalls and fog. Gulf families come in their tens of thousands and almost nobody else does.
Oman is consistently among the safest countries in the world, has no nightlife scene to speak of, and is unhurried in a way that its neighbours are not.
A loop from Muscat inland to Nizwa and Jebel Akhdar, south to the Wahiba Sands, back along the coast through the wadis. Salalah is a separate trip by air.
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque - Mutrah Souq - Corniche
Nizwa Fort - Nizwa Souq - Jabrin Castle
Saiq plateau - Wadi Ghul - Jebel Shams
Wahiba Sands - desert camp
Wadi Bani Khalid - Sur - Ras Al Jinz
Wadi Shab - Bimmah Sinkhole - Qurayyat
Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque - Royal Opera House - departure
Oman is unusual in the Gulf in having two major mosques that formally open to non-Muslim visitors. Elsewhere, mosques are working buildings. Ibadi mosques are architecturally plain by tradition - historically without minarets or ornament.
Open to non-Muslims 8-11am Saturday to Thursday. The main prayer hall holds a single Persian carpet of 4,300 square metres woven by 600 women over four years, and a 14-metre Swarovski chandelier. The courtyard and the marble are the real achievement.
White marble, Moroccan-influenced, and also open to non-Muslim visitors in the mornings. Smaller and calmer than the Grand Mosque, with superb tilework.
The largest mosque in Dhofar, finished in 2009, with a white and gold interior. Open to visitors at set hours.
Beside the fort in the old Ibadi capital, with a gold-topped dome visible from the souk. A working mosque in the historic heart of interior Oman.
A shrine in the mountains above Salalah traditionally identified as the tomb of the Prophet Ayoub (Job), with a mosque beside it and a view down to the coastal plain. A major local ziyarah site.
A remarkable 30-metre-long grave in a walled enclosure in Salalah, associated by local tradition with the father of Maryam. Open to visitors.
A handsome modern mosque on the Seeb coast road with a blue dome, notable for its calligraphy programme.
Small mud-brick village mosques among 400-year-old houses and date terraces - the plain Ibadi form, without minarets, still in daily use.
The walled oasis town below the UNESCO fort contains several early mosques, including Masjid al-Hamouda with a carved mihrab dating to the 16th century.
The old mosque of the Mutrah waterfront, in Iranian-influenced style with blue-tiled minarets, at the end of the corniche near the souk.
A 17th-century Ya'ariba fort built around an enormous round tower with a labyrinth of defensive traps, above a still-working souk and date oasis.
The largest mud-brick fortress in Oman, with 12 kilometres of oasis walls around it. Restored over decades after UNESCO placed it on the endangered list.
Al-Baleed, Sumhuram (Khor Rori) and Wadi Dawkah - the port cities and frankincense groves that supplied the ancient world. The Al-Baleed museum is excellent.
Opposite Al Alam Palace, covering maritime history, the Omani empire in East Africa, falaj engineering and Islamic material culture. The best museum in the country.
Channels cutting water from the mountains across whole oases, some 2,000 years old and still allocating water by time-share. Five are UNESCO-listed; Falaj Daris at Nizwa is the largest.
A mud-brick village built on rock above a terraced date and banana plantation, with falaj channels running between the houses. Guesthouses inside the old village.
Omani food is quieter than Gulf neighbours - less chilli, more dried lime, cardamom and rose water, and a strong Indian and Zanzibari influence from the old empire. Everything is halal.
Meat rubbed with a spice paste, wrapped in banana or palm leaves and buried in a covered fire pit for one to two days. The Eid dish, and the great Omani ceremonial food.
The Omani version of kabsa - saffron rice with meat, dried lime and a light spice mix. Milder than its Saudi and Emirati equivalents.
Whole kingfish spit-roasted and served on lemon rice. A coastal dish and the best use of Omani seafood.
Wheat and meat beaten into a smooth paste. Ramadan food across the Gulf, and a Salalah speciality with ghee on top.
Not a halwa in the Indian sense - a dense, translucent, rose-and-saffron sweet cooked in a copper pot for hours and eaten with Omani coffee. Offered at every social occasion.
Cardamom coffee served in tiny cups with dates or halwa. Refusing outright is impolite; shaking the cup signals you have finished.
Paper-thin bread cooked on a domed griddle over an open fire, torn and used to scoop everything else.
Skewered marinated meat grilled over charcoal at roadside stalls in the evening, served with chilli sauce and bread. The Omani street food.
A winter soup of wheat, dates and molasses from the interior - sweet, thick and specifically Omani.
Oman grows over 250 date varieties. Khalas and fardh are the ones to buy, and dibs is the syrup pressed from them.
Chewed, burned and - in Dhofar - occasionally infused into water. The Hojari grade from the Dhofar mountains is the finest in the world.
Salalah's climate grows coconut, banana and papaya, sold from roadside stalls along the coast road - unexpected in Arabia.
Traditional Omani cooking in a restored merchant house on the Mutrah waterfront - shuwa, mashuai, harees - with a view over the dhow harbour. The best introduction to the cuisine.
Modern Omani cooking - camel biryani, shuwa spring rolls, frankincense ice cream. Inventive and genuinely good.
You eat in a private curtained majlis room, sitting on the floor, from a set Omani menu. Unchanged for decades and the most traditional dining experience in the country.
A garden of lanterns and cushions under trees, serving Omani and Levantine food late into the evening. Where Muscat goes to sit outside in winter.
The grandest hotel dining room in Oman under a 38-metre atrium dome. Alcohol is served; the Friday brunch is an institution.
Charcoal grills and Turkish mezze, inexpensive and always busy with Omani families. Several branches.
Evening charcoal skewers from carts along the waterfront and outside the souk. A rial or two and the best cheap food in the city.
Formal Omani cuisine in a hand-carved interior of Omani wood and plaster beside the opera house. The most serious Omani restaurant in the country.
Halwa, dates, grilled meat and Omani coffee inside and around the souq, best on a Friday morning when the livestock market runs.
A guesthouse in the old mud-brick village serving home-cooked Omani meals on the terrace above the date terraces. Book the dinner with the room.
Levantine grills and mezze in Salalah, busy through the khareef season with Gulf visitors.
Dhofari cooking - harees, mishkak and camel - in a traditional setting. Useful for trying the southern rather than the northern Omani kitchen.
Camps across the Sharqiyah Sands serve a shuwa or mixed-grill buffet with Omani coffee and dates. All are dry and all have prayer areas.
Buy kingfish, hammour or tuna at the morning market and have one of the adjoining stalls grill it. The cheapest good meal on the coast.
Mosques are everywhere, including at every petrol station on the long interior roads - which matters in a country where you drive several hours between towns.
| Where | Prayer facilities |
|---|---|
| Muscat International Airport | Prayer rooms airside and landside with ablution facilities, separated by gender. |
| Petrol stations | Every Shell, Oman Oil and Al Maha station on the highways has a mosque or musalla attached. This is what makes driving the interior straightforward. |
| Malls | Muscat Grand Mall, Oman Avenues, Mall of Oman and the Salalah malls all have signposted prayer rooms. |
| Forts and heritage sites | Nizwa, Bahla, Jabrin and the Salalah frankincense sites all have prayer facilities at or near the ticket office. |
| Wadis and beaches | Wadi Shab, Wadi Bani Khalid and the popular beaches have small mosques or musallas at the car parks. |
| Desert camps | All camps in the Wahiba Sands set aside a prayer area and know the qibla. |
| Hotels | Qibla markers and mats are standard; larger hotels have a musalla and many Omani-owned properties are entirely alcohol-free. |
Muscat spreads for 40 kilometres along the coast, so pick your district carefully. Outside the capital, the best stays are heritage guesthouses, mountain lodges and desert camps rather than hotels.
The corniche, the souq and the dhow harbour - the most atmospheric part of the city and walkable, which the rest of Muscat is not.
The beach district with most of the larger hotels, the Opera House and the malls. Convenient and comfortable rather than characterful.
Restored mud-brick houses in a 400-year-old village above date terraces. Alcohol-free, family-run and the best night in the interior.
At 2,000 metres on the canyon rim, cool even in summer, with terraced villages to walk between. The high-end properties here are among the best in Arabia.
From basic Bedouin tents to air-conditioned suites in the dunes. All alcohol-free, all with dinner included, all reached with a guide from the edge of the sands.
A practical base for the forts, Jebel Shams and the Friday market, with a handful of mid-range hotels and guesthouses.
The dhow-building town and the turtle reserve, useful as an overnight between the desert and the wadis.
Beach hotels along the coconut-lined coast, very busy during the khareef from late June to September and quiet the rest of the year.
The most expensive country in tier two after allowing for the mandatory car hire. All figures are per person per day unless stated, excluding international flights.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | OMR 20-35 | OMR 50-90 | OMR 200+ |
| Food (3 meals) | OMR 6-12 | OMR 18-35 | OMR 70+ |
| Car hire per day | OMR 12-18 (saloon) | OMR 25-40 (4x4) | OMR 80 (with driver) |
| Attractions | OMR 0-3 (forts) | OMR 5-15 | OMR 40+ |
| Desert camp (incl. dinner, pp) | OMR 25-40 | OMR 50-90 | OMR 200+ |
| Daily total per person | OMR 35-55 | OMR 80-140 | OMR 300+ |
Northern Oman follows the Gulf pattern - a fine winter, a brutal summer. Dhofar in the south runs on the opposite cycle because of the monsoon.
| Period | Weather | Verdict for a halal trip |
|---|---|---|
| October-April | 22-30C, dry | The season for Muscat, the mountains, the wadis and the desert. December to February is coolest and the mountain nights are cold. |
| May-September | 38-48C in the north | Severe in Muscat and the interior. Wadi swimming is still pleasant and Jebel Akhdar is 12-15C cooler, but most visitors stay away. |
| Late June-early September | Salalah khareef, 22-27C, fog | The Dhofar monsoon turns the southern mountains green with waterfalls and drizzle. Peak season in Salalah, with packed hotels and Gulf crowds. |
| October-April in Salalah | 25-30C, clear | Salalah out of season: empty beaches, clear skies, cheap hotels and the frankincense sites to yourself. |
The questions Muslim travellers ask most often before booking.