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Halal Travel Guides / Morocco

🇲🇦Halal Travel Guide to Morocco

Morocco is where Andalusia went after 1492, and it shows: zellij tilework, carved cedar and stucco muqarnas in every madrasa from Fes to Marrakech. All meat is halal, so eating is effortless, and the one real constraint is that working mosques are closed to non-Muslims by a law dating from the French protectorate - with the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca as the celebrated exception. This guide runs nine days through Marrakech, the Sahara, Fes and Chefchaouen.

Last updated: 20 September 2026
The Koutoubia Mosque minaret rising above Marrakech at sunset

Why Morocco works for Muslim travellers

Around 99% Muslim, Maliki in school and with a strong Sufi tradition. Everything edible is halal; alcohol is available in licensed hotels and tourist restaurants but is largely invisible in the medinas.

Muslim population
~99%
Sunni, Maliki school, with a historically important Jewish community whose mellah quarters survive in Fes and Marrakech.
Halal status
Default
All meat sold and served is halal. Pork appears only in a few French-oriented delicatessens and hotel buffets, always labelled.
Language
Arabic, Amazigh, French
Darija is the spoken Arabic; French is the second language everywhere; English is common in Marrakech and among young guides.
Visa
Visa-free for 70+
Visa-free for 90 days for the GCC, UK, EU, US, Malaysia, Indonesia and many others.
Currency
Dirham (MAD)
A closed currency - you cannot buy it abroad. Withdraw at the airport. Cash is essential in medinas and souks.
Best months
Mar-May, Sep-Nov
Marrakech exceeds 40C in July and August; the desert is worse. Winter is cold at night in the mountains and the Sahara.

The madrasas are open

Working mosques are closed to non-Muslims, but the great theological colleges are not. Bou Inania and Al-Attarine in Fes and Ben Youssef in Marrakech are the finest surviving Marinid interiors anywhere.

The oldest university in the world

Al-Qarawiyyin in Fes was founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, a woman, and has run continuously since. UNESCO and Guinness both recognise it as the oldest degree-granting institution on earth.

Hassan II Mosque

Built out over the Atlantic in Casablanca, with the tallest minaret in the world, a retractable roof and a glass floor over the sea. One of very few Moroccan mosques that admits non-Muslims, by guided tour.

Nothing to check

Every restaurant, stall and butcher is halal. Alcohol exists in licensed hotels and some tourist restaurants but is entirely absent from the medinas and ordinary cafés.

Four landscapes in one country

Atlantic surf at Essaouira, the High Atlas above 4,000 metres, the Sahara at Merzouga, and blue-washed Rif mountain towns. All within a long day's drive of each other.

Excellent value

A tagine is MAD 40-80, a riad room MAD 400-900, and a three-day Sahara tour from Marrakech is MAD 1,200-2,500 per person including everything.

Know before you go

Nine days: Marrakech, the Sahara, Fes and Chefchaouen

A classic loop. Marrakech to Merzouga takes two driving days across the Atlas; from the desert it is a day to Fes, then north to the Rif. Trains link Fes, Rabat and Casablanca; the desert leg needs a car or a tour.

1Day

Marrakech: the medina

Jemaa el-Fnaa - Koutoubia - souks

morning
Arrive and check into a riad inside the medina - a courtyard house with rooms opening onto an open centre, which is how the whole city is built.
afternoon
The Koutoubia Mosque minaret, the 12th-century Almohad template that the Giralda in Seville and the Hassan Tower in Rabat both copy. Non-Muslims cannot enter but the gardens are open to all.
evening
Jemaa el-Fnaa as the sun goes down - storytellers, snake charmers, Gnawa musicians and a hundred food stalls that appear from nothing at dusk. Chaotic, genuinely old, and recognised by UNESCO as intangible heritage.
Riads are alcohol-free by default and almost all serve a Moroccan breakfast of msemen, baghrir, amlou and mint tea.
2Day

Marrakech: palaces and the madrasa

Ben Youssef Madrasa - Bahia Palace - Majorelle

morning
Ben Youssef Madrasa, a 14th-century theological college restored to an astonishing standard - zellij, carved cedar, Kufic stucco and a hundred and thirty student cells around a marble courtyard. Open to all.
afternoon
Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, sealed for two centuries and rediscovered in 1917. Then the Marrakech Museum in the Mnebhi Palace.
evening
The Jardin Majorelle and the Yves Saint Laurent museum, or the quieter Le Jardin Secret in the medina. Dinner at Al Fassia or on a medina rooftop.
Ben Youssef reopened after a long restoration and is now the single best building you can actually go inside in Marrakech.
3Day

Over the Atlas to the Dades

Tizi n'Tichka - Ait Ben Haddou - Dades Gorge

morning
Leave early over the Tizi n'Tichka pass, 2,260 metres through the High Atlas on a newly rebuilt road. Snow on the peaks into May.
afternoon
Ait Ben Haddou, the fortified mud-brick ksar on the far side - a UNESCO site, and the location for a long list of films. Cross the river and climb to the granary at the top.
evening
Through Ouarzazate to the Dades Gorge or the Todra Gorge for the night. Kasbah guesthouses line both valleys.
Most Marrakech-to-Merzouga tours are three days; doing it in two is possible but means eight hours a day in the car.
4Day

The Sahara: Erg Chebbi

Todra Gorge - Merzouga - desert camp

morning
Todra Gorge, a 300-metre limestone slot with a stream running through it and Amazigh villages at either end.
afternoon
Across the hamada to Merzouga and the dunes of Erg Chebbi, which rise 150 metres out of flat desert with no warning.
evening
Camel trek into the dunes for sunset, then a desert camp - tagine, Gnawa drumming, and the clearest night sky most visitors will ever see.
Camps range from basic to luxury; all are alcohol-free and all will point out the qibla. Nights are cold from November to March - bring layers.
5Day

Desert to Fes

Erg Chebbi sunrise - Ziz Valley - Fes

morning
Sunrise over the dunes, then back out by camel. Breakfast at the camp or in Merzouga.
afternoon
North through the Ziz Valley - a continuous ribbon of date palms in a red canyon - and over the Middle Atlas cedar forests, where Barbary macaques sit by the road at Azrou.
evening
Arrive in Fes. Check into a riad inside Fes el-Bali, the medieval walled city.
It is a long driving day, around seven hours. Break it at Midelt or Ifrane, an improbable alpine-style town in the cedar forest.
6Day

Fes el-Bali

Bou Inania - Qarawiyyin - Chouara tannery

morning
Bou Inania Madrasa, the most elaborate Marinid building open to visitors, with its famous water clock opposite. Then Al-Attarine Madrasa deeper in the medina.
afternoon
Al-Qarawiyyin - founded 859, the oldest continuously operating university in the world, and its library, restored by the architect Aziza Chaouni, holds manuscripts from the 9th century. Non-Muslims can see the courtyard through the doorways and can visit the library entrance.
evening
The Chouara tannery from a leather shop terrace (take the sprig of mint they hand you), then dinner in a riad courtyard.
Fes el-Bali has around 9,000 lanes and no cars. Hire an official guide for the first day - it is the only sensible way to start.
7Day

Fes to Chefchaouen

Rif mountains - Chefchaouen medina

morning
Drive or take the bus north into the Rif (four hours) to Chefchaouen, the blue-washed mountain town.
afternoon
The medina is small enough to wander without a guide - blue lanes, the red-walled kasbah, the Grand Mosque with its unusual octagonal minaret.
evening
Climb to the Spanish Mosque on the hill opposite for sunset over the whole blue town. Twenty-five minutes up.
Chefchaouen is a Rif town and noticeably more conservative than Marrakech. It is also the most relaxed place in Morocco to walk around as a visitor.
8Day

Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss

Volubilis - Moulay Idriss - Meknes

morning
South again to Volubilis, the best-preserved Roman site in Morocco, with mosaics still in the floors of the houses.
afternoon
Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, the hill town built around the tomb of the founder of the first Moroccan Muslim dynasty, and the most important pilgrimage site in the country. The shrine itself is closed to non-Muslims.
evening
Meknes - the Bab Mansour gate, the granaries of Moulay Ismail, and the Zawiya of Moulay Ismail, one of the few shrines in Morocco open to non-Muslim visitors.
This trio makes an easy day trip from Fes if you prefer to stay put rather than moving hotels again.
9Day

Casablanca: Hassan II Mosque, then home

Rabat - Casablanca - airport

morning
Train to Rabat if you have the time - the Hassan Tower, the Mohammed V Mausoleum and the Kasbah of the Udayas, a blue-and-white quarter above the Atlantic.
afternoon
On to Casablanca and the Hassan II Mosque - built on a platform over the ocean, minaret 210 metres, a retractable roof and a glass floor over the water. Guided tours run several times daily for visitors of any faith.
evening
Fly out of Casablanca. The airport is 30 minutes from the city by train.
The Hassan II Mosque is the only large working mosque in Morocco that admits non-Muslims, and tours must be booked at the visitor entrance.

Shorter and longer versions

Mosques and Islamic sites in Morocco

Working mosques in Morocco are closed to non-Muslims under a rule dating from the French protectorate. Muslims may enter any of them freely. The madrasas - theological colleges, now museums - are open to everyone and contain the best craftsmanship in the country.

Hassan II Mosque Casablanca Open to all

Built partly over the Atlantic, with a 210-metre minaret, a retractable roof, heated floors and a glass section through which you can see the sea. Guided tours run several times a day for visitors of any faith. The largest mosque in Africa.

Al-Qarawiyyin Mosque and University Fes Muslims only

Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri and running continuously since - the oldest degree-granting institution in the world. Non-Muslims can look into the courtyard through the doorways and visit the restored library entrance.

Koutoubia Mosque Marrakech Muslims only

The 12th-century Almohad minaret that set the template for the Giralda in Seville and the Hassan Tower in Rabat. The gardens around it are open to everyone and are the best place to watch the call to prayer at maghrib.

Tin Mal Mosque High Atlas Open to all

The 1156 Almohad mosque deep in the mountains south of Marrakech - roofless, ruined and open to non-Muslims. It was damaged in the 2023 earthquake; check the restoration status before making the drive.

Hassan Tower and Mohammed V Mausoleum Rabat Open to all

The unfinished minaret of a 12th-century mosque that would have been the largest in the world, with the columns of the abandoned prayer hall still standing. The mausoleum opposite is open to visitors of any faith.

Zawiya of Moulay Ismail Meknes Open to all

The tomb of the sultan who built Meknes as an imperial capital, and one of the very few Moroccan shrines that admits non-Muslims.

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun Near Volubilis Muslims only

The shrine of Idris I, founder of the first Moroccan Muslim dynasty and a descendant of the Prophet. The most venerated site in the country; the shrine is closed to non-Muslims but the hill town is open to all.

Grand Mosque of Chefchaouen Chefchaouen Muslims only

On the main square beside the kasbah, with an unusual octagonal minaret - a Rif style not seen elsewhere in Morocco.

Andalusian Mosque (Al-Andalusiyyin) Fes Muslims only

Founded in 859 alongside Qarawiyyin by refugees from Andalusia, with a monumental 13th-century cedar and zellij gateway that can be admired from the lane.

Spanish Mosque Chefchaouen Open to all

A small abandoned mosque on the hill opposite the medina, built in the 1920s and never used. Now the sunset viewpoint over the blue town.

Islamic heritage and museums

Bou Inania Madrasa Fes Open to all

The most elaborate Marinid madrasa in the country - carved cedar, stucco muqarnas, zellij and a green-tiled minaret. The water clock on the lane opposite has puzzled engineers for six centuries.

Al-Attarine Madrasa Fes Open to all

Smaller, at the spice merchants' end of the medina, and if anything finer than Bou Inania. The rooftop gives one of the only clear views over Fes el-Bali.

Ben Youssef Madrasa Marrakech Open to all

Once the largest theological college in North Africa, with 130 student cells around a courtyard of marble and zellij. Reopened after a thorough restoration and unmissable.

Chouara Tannery Fes Working craft

Stone dye pits worked by hand since the 11th century, best seen from the terrace of one of the leather shops that surround it. They hand you mint for the smell; it does not entirely work.

Ait Ben Haddou Ouarzazate UNESCO

A fortified mud-brick village stepped up a hillside above a river, continuously maintained for centuries and still partly inhabited. The most photographed place in Morocco after Chefchaouen.

Volubilis Near Meknes UNESCO

A Roman provincial city with mosaic floors still in place, a triumphal arch and a basilica, on a hillside looking towards Moulay Idriss. Nothing to do with Islamic Morocco, and worth an afternoon anyway.

What to eat in Morocco - and where

Everything is halal, and Moroccan food is one of the great cuisines - Amazigh, Arab, Andalusian and Saharan traditions layered over one another. Eat in riads and at street stalls rather than tourist-menu restaurants.

Dishes worth planning a day around

Tagine

Named after the conical clay pot. Lamb with prunes and almonds, chicken with preserved lemon and olives, kefta with egg. Slow-cooked, and the everyday dish of the country.

Couscous

Steamed three times over the broth, served with seven vegetables and meat. Traditionally the Friday dish after the midday prayer, which is when to eat it.

Pastilla (bastilla)

Layered warqa pastry over pigeon or chicken with almonds, cinnamon and icing sugar - sweet and savoury at once. A Fassi dish and a celebration one.

Harira

Tomato, lentil, chickpea and lamb soup thickened with flour and finished with coriander. The standard iftar opener in Ramadan, eaten with dates and chebakia.

Tanjia

A Marrakech speciality distinct from tagine: meat sealed in a clay urn with preserved lemon and cumin and left in the ashes of the hammam furnace for hours.

Mechoui

Whole lamb slow-roasted in an underground pit oven, sold by weight and eaten with cumin and salt. Mechoui Alley off Jemaa el-Fnaa is the place.

Msemen and baghrir

Layered square pancakes and spongy thousand-hole ones, eaten at breakfast with honey, butter and amlou.

Rfissa

Shredded msemen under chicken, lentils and a fenugreek broth. Traditionally cooked for a woman after childbirth, and served at family occasions.

Zaalouk and taktouka

Cooked aubergine and tomato salad, and a roast pepper equivalent. Every meal starts with several small salads like these.

Mint tea

Green gunpowder tea, a great deal of fresh mint and more sugar than you expect, poured from height to aerate it. Refusing it is difficult and unwise.

Amlou

Argan oil, almonds and honey ground into a spread. Southern Moroccan, and the best thing on any breakfast table.

Chebakia and sellou

Sesame-and-honey flower pastries, and a toasted flour, almond and sesame paste. Both are Ramadan foods, made in quantity before the month starts.

Restaurants

Al Fassia Marrakech (Gueliz and Aguedal) Halal

Run entirely by women, serving Fassi cooking - the lamb with caramelised pumpkin and the pastilla are the dishes. Book ahead; one of the best restaurants in the country.

Mechoui Alley (Souk Ablueh) Jemaa el-Fnaa, Marrakech Halal

A short lane of pit ovens where whole lambs roast overnight. Point at the shoulder, they weigh it, you eat it with bread, cumin and salt standing up. Lunchtime only, until it runs out.

Chez Lamine Hadj Mustapha Marrakech Halal

Mechoui and tanjia done properly, in Gueliz and in the medina. Unpretentious and the meat is the point.

Nomad Rahba Kedima, Marrakech Halal

Modern Moroccan on a rooftop over the spice square - lighter, more vegetable-forward cooking than the classic riad menu. Alcohol is served; book the terrace.

Café des Épices Rahba Kedima, Marrakech Alcohol-free

The original terrace café on the spice square, good for a long mint tea and a sandwich while you watch the souk. Simple and reliable.

Dar Yacout Medina, Marrakech Halal

A set-menu evening in a restored palace, with a rooftop aperitif and a procession of salads, tagine and pastilla. Theatrical, expensive, and a genuine experience.

La Maison Arabe cooking school Marrakech Halal

Half-day classes in a riad kitchen - the market first, then tagine, bread and salads. One of the better things to do in a city with a lot of shopping.

Café Clock Fes and Marrakech Alcohol-free

A cultural café in a restored Fassi house with a camel burger, a sunset roof and a programme of storytelling, Gnawa music and calligraphy classes.

The Ruined Garden Fes el-Bali Halal

Moroccan small plates in the overgrown courtyard of a collapsed house inside the medina. Mechoui and pastilla must be ordered a day ahead.

Nur Fes Fine dining

A tiny tasting-menu restaurant working with Moroccan ingredients in a modern idiom. Twelve seats, booking essential, and the most ambitious cooking in Fes.

Dar Roumana Fes Halal

A riad restaurant with a short daily menu and a terrace over the medina. Consistently good and a calm evening after a day in the lanes.

Jemaa el-Fnaa night stalls Marrakech Halal

A hundred numbered stalls appear at dusk doing grilled meat, harira, snail soup and sheep's head. Touts are aggressive; pick a busy stall with locals at it and agree what you are ordering.

Bab Ssour Chefchaouen Alcohol-free

A small local place off the main square doing tagine and grilled fish at Moroccan rather than tourist prices.

Port and seafood grills Essaouira Halal

Pick your fish from the morning catch at the harbour stalls and have it grilled in front of you. Agree the price by weight before they cook it.

Watch out for:
  • Everything is halal - the only thing to check is alcohol, which appears in licensed hotels, Ville Nouvelle restaurants and some upmarket riads.
  • A few French-style delicatessens in Casablanca and Rabat sell pork charcuterie; it is labelled and confined to those shops.
  • Jemaa el-Fnaa food stalls are a genuine experience but the touting is relentless and prices are quoted high. Confirm every item and its price before it lands on the table.
  • Tap water is chlorinated and drinkable in cities but most visitors use bottled water; salads in cheap places are the usual culprit for upset stomachs.
  • Snail soup (babouche) and sheep's head are both street classics - halal, and not to everyone's taste.

Prayer, dress and practicalities

Mosques are everywhere and the adhan from Koutoubia or Qarawiyyin carries across the whole medina. Non-Muslims cannot enter working mosques, but that is no obstacle to Muslim travellers, who may pray in any of them.

WherePrayer facilities
Any medinaMarrakech and Fes have hundreds of neighbourhood mosques, each with an ablution fountain. You are never more than two or three minutes from one.
Casablanca and Marrakech airportsPrayer rooms in every terminal, landside and airside, with ablution facilities.
Motorway rest stopsThe Casablanca-Rabat-Tangier and Marrakech motorways have service areas with mosques, and the Afriquia petrol stations on main roads have prayer rooms.
Train stationsCasa Voyageurs, Rabat Agdal, Fes and Marrakech stations have prayer rooms; the Al Boraq high-speed line stations all do.
Riads and hotelsQibla direction is known to every riad host. Prayer mats are supplied on request and most riads have a quiet corner set aside.
Desert campsAll camps have a prayer area and will time dinner around maghrib. Guides carry mats.
Souks and marketsShops in the medina simply close for fifteen minutes at prayer time, particularly for the Friday midday prayer, when much of the medina shuts.

Practical notes

Where to stay in Morocco

Stay in riads. A restored courtyard house inside the medina, with six to ten rooms, breakfast on the roof and a host who will arrange everything, is both cheaper and far better than a Ville Nouvelle hotel.

Riads in the Marrakech medina Marrakech Alcohol-free (mostly)

The default and the right choice. Look for one in the Mouassine, Dar el Bacha or Kasbah quarters - quieter than the area immediately around Jemaa el-Fnaa but still walkable to it.

Gueliz (Ville Nouvelle) Marrakech Modern

The French-built new town - wide streets, cafés, modern hotels and easier access by car. Less atmospheric, more convenient with luggage or small children.

Riads in Fes el-Bali Fes Alcohol-free (mostly)

Spectacular restored houses in the medieval medina, often with rooftops over the whole city. Note that no vehicle can reach them - porters carry luggage the last stretch.

Chefchaouen medina guesthouses Chefchaouen Alcohol-free

Small family-run houses inside the blue lanes, most with roof terraces facing the Rif mountains. Cheap and almost all alcohol-free.

Desert camps, Merzouga Erg Chebbi Alcohol-free

From shared Berber tents to private suites with plumbing, all in the dunes and all reached by camel or 4x4. Nights are cold October to March.

Kasbah guesthouses, Dades and Todra Atlas valleys Alcohol-free

Converted mud-brick kasbahs on the Marrakech-Merzouga route, with terraces over the gorges. The best overnight stop on the desert drive.

Essaouira medina Atlantic coast Coastal

A walled Portuguese-built port with riads inside the ramparts, a long beach and a working fishing harbour. Windy, cool and far more relaxed than Marrakech.

Beaches, pools and leisure

What a halal-friendly trip to Morocco costs

One of the best-value destinations in this guide, particularly for accommodation. All figures are per person per day unless stated, excluding international flights.

ItemBudgetMid-rangePremium
AccommodationMAD 250-450 (riad)MAD 700-1,400MAD 3,000+
Food (3 meals)MAD 100-180MAD 250-450MAD 900+
Local transportMAD 30-60 (petit taxi)MAD 150-300MAD 900 (car and driver)
AttractionsMAD 70-150MAD 200-400MAD 600+
Sahara tour (3 days, pp)MAD 1,200-1,600 (shared)MAD 2,000-3,000MAD 6,000+ (private)
Daily total per personMAD 400-650MAD 1,100-2,000MAD 4,500+

Best time to visit Morocco

Four distinct zones: Atlantic coast, interior cities, High Atlas and Sahara, all with different seasons. The spring and autumn shoulders suit all four at once.

PeriodWeatherVerdict for a halal trip
March-May18-28C, greenThe best window. Mild in Marrakech and Fes, wildflowers in the Atlas, and the desert still comfortable by day.
June-August35-45C inlandMarrakech and the desert are punishing. Essaouira and the Atlantic coast stay cool, and the Atlas is the escape.
September-November20-30CThe other best window - the heat has broken, the light is at its best, and the desert nights are cool rather than cold.
December-February8-18C, cold nightsCheapest, and the medinas are quiet. Atlas passes can close with snow and desert nights drop near freezing - pack properly.
Travelling during Ramadan: Morocco fasts thoroughly. Many restaurants and cafés close during daylight outside the main tourist areas, though riads will feed guests and Marrakech's tourist restaurants stay open. Iftar is a ritual in itself - harira, dates, chebakia, msemen and hard-boiled eggs - and the medinas come alive after maghrib in a way they never do the rest of the year. Working hours shorten and the souks open late and stay open very late. Eid al-Fitr closes almost everything for two or three days. If you want the atmosphere it is a remarkable time to come; if you want a straightforward sightseeing holiday, choose another month.

Morocco halal travel FAQ

The questions Muslim travellers ask most often before booking.

Can I enter mosques in Morocco?
Muslims can enter any mosque freely. Non-Muslims cannot enter working mosques - a rule dating from the French protectorate - with three well-known exceptions: the Hassan II Mosque in Casablanca, the ruined Tin Mal Mosque in the High Atlas, and the Zawiya of Moulay Ismail in Meknes. The madrasas, however, are open to everyone and contain the finest craftsmanship in the country.
Is all food in Morocco halal?
Yes, in practice. All meat sold and served is halal. The only exceptions are a handful of French-style delicatessens in Casablanca and Rabat, which label their pork products, and some international hotel buffets. Alcohol is available in licensed hotels and tourist restaurants but is absent from the medinas.
Marrakech or Fes?
Fes for the medieval city, the madrasas, Qarawiyyin and craft - it is older, larger and far less changed. Marrakech for the energy, the palaces, the gardens and the access to the Atlas and the desert. Most itineraries do both; if you can only do one and you want Islamic heritage, choose Fes.
Is a Sahara tour worth it?
Yes, if you go to Merzouga and Erg Chebbi rather than the closer Zagora dunes. It is two long driving days each way from Marrakech, which is the real cost, but the dunes, the camel trek and the night sky are the memory most people keep from the trip.
What should women wear?
Covered shoulders and knees, loose rather than tight. This is not legally required but it substantially reduces street attention, which can be persistent in Marrakech and Fes. A scarf is useful. Rif towns and rural areas are more conservative than the cities.
How do I deal with the souks?
Expect to haggle - opening prices are three to four times the sale price. Decide what the item is worth to you, offer around a third, and be prepared to walk away. For argan oil and rugs, the fixed-price women's cooperatives outside Essaouira and in the Atlas are both cheaper and more honest.
Is Morocco safe for solo travellers?
Broadly yes, with violent crime rare. The recurring complaints are persistent faux guides, souk touting and street harassment of women, none of which is dangerous but all of which is wearing. Book official guides through your riad, dress modestly, and be firm rather than polite when declining.
Do I need a guide for the medinas?
For your first day in Fes el-Bali, yes - around 9,000 lanes, no cars and no useful street grid. Marrakech's medina is more navigable and Chefchaouen's is small enough to be pleasant to get lost in. Book official, badged guides through your riad rather than accepting offers in the street.