Cairo is the only city where you can see the oldest intact mosque in the world in the morning, the Grand Egyptian Museum in the afternoon, and eat koshari for under a dollar in between. Al-Azhar has taught continuously since 972, Al-Muizz Street is effectively an open-air museum of Fatimid, Ayyubid and Mamluk architecture, and the whole country is halal without exception. Nine days covers Cairo, Luxor and Aswan with a Nile leg in between.
Around 90% Muslim with a large and ancient Coptic Christian minority. All meat is halal, alcohol is legal but confined to tourist venues and a handful of licensed shops, and prices are among the lowest in this guide.
Amr ibn al-As, founded 641, is the first mosque built in Africa. Ibn Tulun, from 879, is the oldest intact mosque anywhere in its original form, with a spiral minaret you can still climb.
Founded in 970 and teaching since 972, Al-Azhar is the most influential seat of Sunni learning in the world and its mosque is open to visitors. The courtyard at asr is one of the great sights of Cairo.
A kilometre of Fatimid, Ayyubid, Mamluk and Ottoman buildings standing shoulder to shoulder - UNESCO calls it the greatest concentration of medieval Islamic architecture in the Islamic world.
The Giza plateau needs no introduction, and the Grand Egyptian Museum beside it now holds the complete Tutankhamun collection in one place for the first time.
Koshari costs under a dollar, a good Cairo hotel is USD 40-80, and a domestic flight to Luxor is USD 60. Currency devaluation has made Egypt one of the cheapest destinations anywhere.
A Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan, and then some of the best and cheapest diving in the world on the Sinai and Hurghada coasts.
Four days for Cairo - Islamic Cairo alone justifies two - then the overnight train or a short flight south for the Pharaonic sites and the Nile.
Ibn Tulun - Sultan Hassan - the Citadel
Al-Azhar - Al-Muizz Street - Khan el-Khalili
Giza plateau - GEM
MIA - Coptic Cairo - Amr ibn al-As
Karnak - Luxor Temple - Abu al-Haggag
Valley of the Kings - Hatshepsut - Medinet Habu
Edfu - Kom Ombo - Aswan
Abu Simbel - Philae - Nubian village
Aswan - Cairo - departure
Historic Cairo's mosques are generally open to visitors of any faith outside prayer times, some for a small ticket that also covers the minaret climb. Cover shoulders, knees and hair; shoes come off at the door.
The oldest mosque in Egypt surviving in something close to its original form, and one of the largest by area. A vast brick courtyard with a spiral external staircase on the minaret, modelled on Samarra. Climb it. Almost always empty.
The first mosque built in Africa, founded by the companion who led the conquest of Egypt. Rebuilt repeatedly on the same ground, so nothing of the original survives, but the site is the oldest in the continent.
Fatimid foundation, and the seat of the oldest continuously operating university in the Arab world. Students still study in the riwaqs around the marble courtyard. Open to visitors; the courtyard at asr is the moment to be there.
Built 1356-1363, with a 26-metre entrance portal, four madrasas for the four Sunni schools around one courtyard, and a scale that still astonishes. Widely held to be the finest Mamluk building in existence.
Ottoman in style, clad in alabaster, sitting on top of Saladin's Citadel and visible from most of the city. The terrace has the classic view over Cairo's minarets to the pyramids on a clear day.
Believed to hold the head of Husayn ibn Ali, the Prophet's grandson, and one of the most venerated sites in Egypt. Non-Muslims are generally not admitted to the shrine chamber.
The shrine of the Prophet's granddaughter, and the centre of one of Cairo's largest moulid festivals. The surrounding quarter is intensely local.
Facing Sultan Hassan across a narrow lane and finished in 1912 in deliberate imitation of Mamluk style. Holds the tombs of Egypt's royal family and of the last Shah of Iran.
A mosque, madrasa, mausoleum and hospital in one Mamluk block, with an interior of inlaid marble and stained glass that is the best surviving example of its kind.
Built onto the Fatimid Bab Zuweila gate, with two minarets you can climb for a rooftop view over the medieval city - the single best vantage point in Islamic Cairo.
A working mosque built into the upper level of Luxor Temple, fifteen metres above the ancient floor because the temple was buried in silt when it was founded. Its annual festival preserves the route of the ancient Opet procession.
Built over the tomb of a 13th-century Andalusian Sufi, in cream stone with an octagonal plan and four domes, facing the Mediterranean in the old harbour quarter.
Over 100,000 objects from Spain to India - Mamluk enamelled glass mosque lamps, early Qur'ans, Fatimid woodwork and one of the best metalwork collections anywhere. Restored after the 2014 bombing, and rarely crowded.
A kilometre of Fatimid, Ayyubid, Mamluk and Ottoman buildings in continuous sequence, pedestrianised and floodlit after dark. The densest concentration of medieval Islamic architecture in the world.
The largest archaeological museum in the world, beside the pyramids, holding the complete Tutankhamun collection together for the first time along with the Khufu solar boat.
Built by the Aga Khan Trust on a 500-year-old rubbish mound, with the excavated Ayyubid city wall along one edge and a view over the minarets of the medieval city. The best place in Cairo at sunset.
A district of monumental Mamluk funerary complexes - Sultan Barquq, Qaytbay - standing among an inhabited neighbourhood. Qaytbay's dome is the finest piece of carved stonework in Egypt.
The modern successor to the ancient library, a tilted disc inscribed with the scripts of the world, with a manuscript museum and a strong Arabic and Islamic collection.
Egyptian food is cheap, filling and almost entirely halal. It is also more vegetarian than most Arab cuisines - koshari, ful and ta'ameya are the national trio and none of them contains meat.
Rice, lentils, macaroni, chickpeas and fried onion under a spiced tomato sauce, with garlic vinegar and chilli on the side. The national dish, entirely vegetarian, and under a dollar.
Fava beans stewed overnight and mashed with oil, cumin and lemon. Breakfast for most of the country, eaten with baladi bread.
Egyptian falafel, made with fava beans rather than chickpeas, greener inside and lighter. Better than the Levantine version, and Egyptians will tell you so.
Jute leaf cooked into a green, slightly viscous soup with garlic and coriander, served over rice with chicken or rabbit. Divisive and beloved.
Spiced minced beef baked inside baladi bread until the bread crisps and absorbs the fat. Street food, and the best cheap meal in Cairo.
Layers of crisp bread, rice and meat under a garlic-vinegar tomato sauce. The Eid al-Adha dish, served at celebrations.
Vine leaves, courgettes, peppers and cabbage stuffed with herbed rice. Every household has its own version.
Paper-thin layered pastry folded many times and baked with ghee, served sweet with honey or savoury with cheese. Rural Egyptian, and enormous.
Bread or pastry baked in milk with nuts, raisins and coconut - Egypt's bread pudding, named for a 13th-century sultana. Served hot.
Pigeon stuffed with freekeh or rice and grilled. A delicacy, and specifically Egyptian.
Chilled hibiscus tea, deep red and tart, and fresh-pressed sugarcane from a street press for a few pounds. Both are everywhere.
Semolina cake in syrup, and shredded pastry over cream or cheese. Egyptian kunafa is usually made with cream rather than the stretchy cheese of the Levant.
Four floors dedicated to koshari and nothing else, since 1950. The most famous cheap restaurant in Egypt. Order at the counter, sit, eat, leave.
Egyptian classics since 1959 in a green-lit room full of birdcages and lanterns - ful, ta'ameya, molokhia, mahshi. Long a first stop for visitors and still good.
Egyptian street food reworked for a modern audience - hawawshi, ta'ameya sandwiches, koshari - in a bright, design-led setting. Reliable and easy.
A working-class Cairo institution open until dawn, serving liver, sausage, brain and grilled offal from plastic tables on the pavement. Not for everyone and completely authentic.
Charcoal grills - kofta, lamb chops, kebab - in a busy local room. The standard Cairene grill house done well.
Traditional Egyptian cooking in a dim, carpeted, deliberately old-fashioned room - molokhia with rabbit, stuffed pigeon, fattah. Alcohol is served; the food is the draw.
The calm, air-conditioned option inside the bazaar, named for the Nobel laureate who wrote about these lanes. Reliable Egyptian menu and a good escape from the touting.
A tea house open more or less continuously since 1773, in an alley of mirrors beside Al-Hussein. Mint tea, shisha and a great deal of people-watching.
Charcoal-grilled chicken, fresh baladi bread baked in front of you, and mezze, in a garden on the road out to the pyramids. A Cairo family tradition.
The reliable everyday koshari chain, cleaner and more consistent than the street stalls, and still under a dollar.
Egyptian home cooking in a restored 1930s house with a roof terrace - tagines, mezze and stuffed pigeon. The best restaurant in Luxor and alcohol-free.
Nubian cooking - different spicing, more tamarind and okra - served in the painted houses of Gharb Soheil. Usually arranged as a boat trip with dinner.
Pick your fish from the ice at the front, they grill or fry it and serve it with salads and tahina. The classic Alexandrian seafood experience.
Ful and ta'ameya since 1957, and the reference point for Egyptian breakfast. Cheap, busy and excellent.
Cairo is called the city of a thousand minarets and the estimate is conservative. The adhan from several mosques at once is the sound of the city.
| Where | Prayer facilities |
|---|---|
| Everywhere in Cairo | Mosques on almost every street, all open for the five prayers with ablution facilities. Historic mosques such as Ibn Tulun and Al-Azhar welcome worshippers as well as visitors. |
| Cairo International Airport | Prayer rooms in all terminals, airside and landside, with ablution facilities. |
| Tourist sites | Giza, Karnak, the Valley of the Kings, Abu Simbel and the Grand Egyptian Museum all have prayer rooms near the visitor centres. |
| Trains and stations | Ramses Station in Cairo and the main southern stations have prayer rooms. Sleeper trains will point out the qibla on request. |
| Malls and metro | Cairo's malls and the larger metro stations have musallas, usually near the service areas. |
| Nile cruise boats | Most boats set aside a prayer area and will tell you the qibla; dahabiyas simply point at the riverbank. |
| Hotels | Qibla markers are standard. Many hotels in Cairo have a small mosque or prayer room, and the adhan is audible from every window anyway. |
Cairo's neighbourhoods differ sharply. Zamalek and Garden City are quiet and leafy, Downtown is loud and central, and the Giza side is convenient for the pyramids but disconnected from the rest of the city.
An island in the Nile - tree-lined, quieter, full of cafés and galleries, and a reasonable taxi from Islamic Cairo. The most comfortable base.
Belle-époque buildings, walkable to the Egyptian Museum and the metro, and closest to Islamic Cairo. Noisy and full of character.
A handful of small hotels inside the medieval city itself, with rooftops over the minarets. Basic, atmospheric and alcohol-free.
Hotels and guesthouses facing the plateau, some with the Great Pyramid filling the window. Convenient for Giza and the GEM, inconvenient for everything else.
The corniche and the town, walkable to Luxor Temple and the ferry, with the widest choice of hotels and restaurants.
Guesthouses among the sugarcane fields near the Valley of the Kings - much quieter, much cheaper, and a five-minute ferry from town.
Painted houses on the west bank facing the granite islands, reached by boat. A completely different atmosphere from the Nile-side hotels.
A low-key Bedouin-founded beach town rather than a resort strip - cheap, relaxed, excellent diving, and far less built up than Sharm el-Sheikh.
After the pound's devaluation, Egypt is the cheapest destination in this guide by a clear margin. All figures are per person per day unless stated, excluding international flights.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | EGP 600-1,200 | EGP 2,000-4,000 | EGP 9,000+ |
| Food (3 meals) | EGP 150-300 | EGP 500-900 | EGP 2,500+ |
| Local transport | EGP 60-150 (Uber) | EGP 250-500 | EGP 2,000 (car and guide) |
| Attractions | EGP 200-500 | EGP 900-1,800 (GEM, Valley of Kings) | EGP 4,000+ |
| Sleeper train Cairo-Luxor | EGP 2,000 (shared cabin) | EGP 3,500-5,000 | EGP 7,000+ |
| Daily total per person | EGP 900-1,600 | EGP 3,000-5,500 | EGP 14,000+ |
The south is the limiting factor. Cairo is manageable most of the year; Luxor and Aswan are not.
| Period | Weather | Verdict for a halal trip |
|---|---|---|
| October-April | 18-28C | The season. Comfortable in Cairo and workable in Luxor and Aswan. December and January are peak, with higher prices. |
| March-April | 22-32C | Excellent, though the khamsin wind can bring dust storms in April. |
| May-September | 35-45C in the south | Luxor and Aswan are extremely hot; sightseeing means starting at 5am. Cairo is hazy and hot. Cheapest rates of the year. |
| Red Sea, year-round | 22-38C | The Sinai and Hurghada coasts work all year. Summer is hot but the water is the point; winter is mild and the diving is best. |
The questions Muslim travellers ask most often before booking.