Muslims ruled part of the Iberian peninsula for 781 years, and what they built is still standing. The Alhambra in Granada, the Mezquita in Córdoba, the Giralda in Seville and the ruined palace-city of Medina Azahara are the finest Islamic monuments in Europe by a wide margin. Modern Spain has around two and a half million Muslims, mostly Moroccan, and halal restaurants cluster in Granada's Albaicín, Madrid's Lavapiés and Barcelona's Raval. Spanish cuisine is built on pork, so you plan your meals around those districts.
Around 2.5 million Muslims, roughly 5% of the population, predominantly of Moroccan origin, plus Spanish converts particularly in Granada. Halal food concentrates in specific districts; outside them, pork is everywhere.
A palace-fortress built by the Nasrids in the 13th and 14th centuries, with the Court of the Lions, muqarnas vaults that look like frozen honeycomb, and Arabic poetry carved directly into the walls as decoration.
Eight hundred and fifty columns under red-and-white double arches, begun in 785. A cathedral was built into the middle of it in the 16th century, which is itself part of the story.
The palace-city built by Abd al-Rahman III in 936 and destroyed in a civil war within seventy years. Excavated, UNESCO-listed, and almost empty of visitors compared with the Mezquita.
Córdoba in the tenth century had street lighting, public libraries and the largest book collection in Europe. Ibn Rushd, Ibn Arabi, al-Zahrawi and Maimonides all came out of al-Andalus.
Granada's Albaicín quarter has teterías and Moroccan restaurants, and Madrid's Lavapiés and Barcelona's Raval have Pakistani and Moroccan clusters - the practical answer to Spain's pork problem.
High-speed rail links Madrid, Córdoba, Seville and Málaga, and the Andalusian cities are within two hours of each other.
The al-Andalus circuit by high-speed rail. Madrid to Córdoba is 105 minutes, Córdoba to Seville 45, and Granada is three hours from Seville by bus or train.
Prado - Retiro - Lavapiés
Cristo de la Luz - Alcázar - synagogues
Mezquita - Judería - Roman bridge
Medina Azahara - Calahorra - Alcázar
Giralda - Real Alcázar - Triana
Albaicín - Mirador San Nicolás - Mezquita Mayor
Nasrid Palaces - Generalife - Alcazaba
Sacromonte - or Málaga Alcazaba
The historic mosques of al-Andalus are museums or churches - the Mezquita of Córdoba is a cathedral and Muslim prayer there is prohibited. Modern Spain has around 1,600 mosques and prayer rooms, mostly small and serving the Moroccan community.
Eight hundred and fifty columns under double horseshoe arches, begun in 785 and extended four times. A cathedral was inserted into the centre in the 16th century. It functions as a Catholic cathedral and Muslim prayer inside is prohibited and enforced.
The only substantially intact mosque surviving from Islamic Toledo - a small square building of nine bays, each with a different vault, converted to a church in the 12th century. Open as a monument.
The first purpose-built mosque in Granada since 1492, on the Albaicín hill, with a garden terrace looking directly at the Alhambra. Open to visitors and a quieter viewpoint than the mirador next door.
Opened in 1992 and funded by Saudi Arabia, the largest mosque in Spain, with a cultural centre, library and halal restaurant. In the east of the city near the M-30 ring road.
The older and more central of Madrid's main mosques, near Tetuán, serving a largely Moroccan congregation.
A purpose-built mosque serving the large Muslim community and Gulf visitors on the Costa del Sol, with a Moroccan-influenced design.
One of the first purpose-built mosques in modern Spain, built in 1981 with Saudi funding, serving Marbella's substantial Gulf community.
A small oratory within the Aljafería, the Taifa-era palace in Zaragoza - the finest surviving Islamic building in the north of Spain, now partly the Aragonese parliament.
The Iglesia del Salvador stands on Seville's earlier congregational mosque; part of the minaret and the courtyard survive and are visible from the street.
The two Spanish autonomous cities on the Moroccan coast are roughly half Muslim, with numerous working mosques and full halal food provision - a very different Spain.
The Nasrid palace-fortress of the 13th and 14th centuries - the Court of the Lions, muqarnas vaults, and around 10,000 Arabic inscriptions including poetry written for the building itself. Book months ahead.
The great mosque of the Umayyad caliphate of the west, begun in 785. The forest of double arches in red brick and white stone is one of the defining images of Islamic architecture.
The palace-city founded in 936 by Abd al-Rahman III on declaring the caliphate, destroyed within seventy years, and excavated from the 1910s. Its underground museum is superb.
The Giralda was the Almohad great mosque's minaret, built in 1184; the Alcázar is a Christian royal palace rebuilt by Muslim craftsmen in Mudéjar style, and is still a royal residence.
An 11th-century Taifa palace with intricate interlacing arches, the most important Islamic building in northern Spain, now housing the regional parliament.
The old Muslim quarter of Granada, a UNESCO site in its own right, with the 11th-century Bañuelo Arab baths among the best preserved in Spain.
Spanish cuisine is built on pork, which makes Spain one of the harder European countries for halal eating. The answer is to base yourself near the Moroccan and South Asian districts, where the food is excellent and cheap.
Granada's Albaicín, Madrid's Lavapiés and Barcelona's Raval all have Moroccan restaurants serving the food of Spain's largest Muslim community.
Andalusian fried fish - anchovies, squid, whitebait - dusted in flour and fried in olive oil. Naturally halal and the coast's great dish.
Cold tomato soups from Andalusia. Gazpacho is thin and drinkable; Córdoba's salmorejo is thicker - but it is usually topped with jamón, so order it without.
Potato and egg omelette, served cold or warm in wedges. Vegetarian and safe, and on every bar counter in the country.
Valencia's rice dish. Seafood and vegetable versions are fine; the traditional Valencian version uses rabbit and chicken, and many restaurant paellas add chorizo.
Cooked vegetable dishes - pisto is a Spanish ratatouille, escalivada is Catalan roasted peppers and aubergine. Both vegetarian and widely available.
Fried dough with thick drinking chocolate, eaten for breakfast or after a late night. Usually fried in vegetable oil, but worth checking.
Granada's Calle Calderería is lined with Moroccan tea houses serving mint tea, pastries and shisha. An Albaicín institution, and entirely alcohol-free.
Alfajores, pestiños, polvorones and mantecados - many are of Andalusi origin and are still made by convents to medieval recipes. Some use lard; ask.
Lavapiés in Madrid and Raval in Barcelona have dense clusters of halal South Asian restaurants, cheap and open late.
Andalusia produces more olive oil than any region on earth, and the Seville orange is the basis of British marmalade. Both are worth buying.
Tiger nut milk from Valencia, and fresh orange juice squeezed to order in every café. Both entirely safe.
Moroccan-Andalusi cooking in the Albaicín, alcohol-free, and one of the best-regarded restaurants in Granada regardless of dietary requirement. Book ahead.
A stepped lane of Moroccan tea houses, shops and small restaurants below the Albaicín - mint tea, pastries, tagines. Touristy and genuinely pleasant.
Andalusi-influenced cooking below the Alhambra on the Darro river walk, with halal meat options. Confirm when booking.
Pakistani, Bangladeshi, Moroccan and Senegalese restaurants across a few streets in Madrid's most mixed quarter. Cheap, plentiful and open late.
The restaurant at the M-30 mosque serves halal Middle Eastern and Moroccan food, and is a reliable option in a city with few certified restaurants.
Barcelona's most diverse district, with Pakistani, Moroccan and Bangladeshi restaurants around Carrer Hospital and Rambla del Raval.
Córdoba's old quarter has several restaurants serving Sephardic and Andalusi-inspired menus. Few are halal-certified, so confirm the meat source directly.
Moroccan tea houses in the old quarters of both cities, serving tea, pastries and light Moroccan dishes without alcohol.
The Costa del Sol's large Moroccan and Gulf communities support a cluster of halal restaurants, particularly around Fuengirola's mosque and Marbella's Golden Mile.
The Spanish autonomous cities are roughly half Muslim and halal food is the norm rather than the exception - a useful contrast if you make the ferry crossing.
Fried fish bars along the coast from Cádiz to Málaga serve nothing but fish and squid fried in olive oil - straightforward whatever your requirements.
Spain's covered markets are excellent for fruit, olives, nuts and seafood counters - a reliable way to eat well without navigating pork-heavy menus.
Spain's vegetarian scene has grown quickly, and a vegetarian restaurant sidesteps the pork problem entirely in cities with few halal options.
Found in Lavapiés, Raval, the Albaicín and the Costa del Sol towns - useful if you have self-catering accommodation.
Spain has around 1,600 mosques and prayer rooms, mostly small and serving the Moroccan community. Provision at airports and public buildings is limited compared with Britain.
| Where | Prayer facilities |
|---|---|
| Madrid Barajas and Barcelona El Prat | Both have multi-faith prayer rooms; Madrid's is in Terminal 4. Málaga also has one. |
| Mosques | Around 1,600 nationwide, concentrated in Catalonia, Madrid, Andalusia and the Costa del Sol. Most are small prayer rooms rather than purpose-built mosques. |
| Granada | The Mezquita Mayor in the Albaicín, plus several small prayer rooms in the quarter. The most convenient provision of any Andalusian city. |
| Madrid | The Islamic Cultural Centre (M-30 mosque) and the Abu Bakr mosque, plus prayer rooms in Lavapiés and Tetuán. |
| Costa del Sol | Fuengirola and Marbella both have purpose-built mosques serving large Moroccan and Gulf communities. |
| Historic monuments | None of the al-Andalus monuments has a prayer space. Prayer inside the Mezquita of Córdoba is prohibited and enforced. |
| Hotels | Qibla markers are not standard outside the Costa del Sol hotels used to Gulf guests. Rooms are the usual option. |
In Granada, the Albaicín puts you among the halal restaurants and teterías. In Madrid and Barcelona, staying near Lavapiés or Raval has the same effect.
The old Muslim quarter of white houses and stepped lanes facing the Alhambra, with the Moroccan restaurants, teterías and the Mezquita Mayor. Steep - take a taxi with luggage.
The old Jewish quarter below the Alhambra, flatter than the Albaicín and walkable to both the palace and the Albaicín.
Whitewashed lanes and flowered patios around the Mezquita, with small hotels in restored courtyard houses. The best base in the city.
The old quarter beside the cathedral and the Alcázar, dense with small hotels. Hot in summer - check for air conditioning.
Madrid's most mixed quarter, with halal restaurants, grocers and prayer rooms, on the metro and twenty minutes' walk from the Prado.
Raval has Barcelona's halal restaurant cluster; El Born next door is more attractive and equally central.
Both have purpose-built mosques, halal restaurants and hotels used to Gulf visitors. Málaga airport is 20-40 minutes away.
Hill towns of Muslim origin in the Sierra de Grazalema, with dramatic settings and very few halal options - self-catering works best.
Cheaper than northern Europe, with Andalusia noticeably cheaper than Madrid and Barcelona. All figures are per person per day unless stated, excluding international flights.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | EUR 55-90 | EUR 120-200 | EUR 400+ |
| Food (3 meals) | EUR 25-40 | EUR 55-100 | EUR 220+ |
| Local transport | EUR 5-12 (metro) | EUR 25-50 | EUR 200 (car and driver) |
| Attractions | EUR 0-15 | EUR 40-80 | EUR 200+ |
| Alhambra ticket | EUR 19 (general) | EUR 19 | EUR 50+ (guided) |
| Daily total per person | EUR 90-140 | EUR 190-330 | EUR 750+ |
Andalusia is Mediterranean with a continental interior - mild winters and genuinely dangerous summer heat in Córdoba and Seville.
| Period | Weather | Verdict for a halal trip |
|---|---|---|
| April-June | 18-30C | The best window. Córdoba's patio festival is in May, the gardens are at their peak, and the heat has not arrived. |
| July-August | 35-45C inland | Córdoba and Seville are among the hottest cities in Europe. Sightseeing means dawn and dusk only. The coast is bearable and crowded. |
| September-October | 20-32C | The other excellent window - the heat breaks, the sea is still warm, and the crowds thin after the first week of September. |
| November-March | 8-18C | Mild, quiet and cheap in Andalusia, with snow on the Sierra Nevada behind the Alhambra. Madrid is genuinely cold. |
The questions Muslim travellers ask most often before booking.