The Maldives is the only country in the world where every citizen is legally Muslim, and outside the resorts it is a conservative Sunni society where alcohol is banned and modest dress is the norm. That creates two entirely different holidays: the resort islands, each a private leased atoll with its own rules, and the inhabited islands, opened to guesthouse tourism in 2009, where you stay in a Maldivian town for a tenth of the price. This guide covers both, with the halal considerations for each.
Sunni Islam is the state religion and a condition of citizenship. Every inhabited island is dry and modest; the resort islands operate under a separate regime and are licensed for alcohol.
Manta rays at Hanifaru Bay, whale sharks year-round in South Ari atoll, and reef systems you can swim to from the beach. Among the best and most accessible snorkelling anywhere.
Male's Old Friday Mosque, built in 1658 from carved coral stone with Qur'anic inscriptions cut directly into the blocks and a lacquered timber interior. One of the most unusual mosques in the Islamic world.
Guesthouse tourism on inhabited islands, legal since 2009, means a Maldives trip on USD 80-150 a day rather than USD 800. The reef is the same reef.
Adhan five times a day from island mosques, no alcohol on inhabited islands, and a social norm of modest dress. For many Muslim travellers the local islands are more comfortable than the resorts.
A 30-day visa on arrival, free, for every nationality. Few countries are this open.
Between November and April the dry monsoon gives flat seas, clear water and almost no rain.
A night in Male for the mosque and the museum, then a speedboat or ferry to a local island for the reefs and the village, with an optional resort night at the end.
Hukuru Miskiy - National Museum - fish market
Public ferry or speedboat - Maafushi, Dhigurah or Ukulhas
House reef - sandbank - dolphin cruise
South Ari atoll or Hanifaru Bay
Dive sites - village - boduberu
Inter-atoll transfer - resort day pass
Beach - reef - village
Speedboat - Velana International
Every inhabited island has at least one mosque, and the adhan carries across the water. Male's coral-stone mosques are architecturally unique in the Islamic world - built from cut coral blocks with the inscriptions carved into the stone itself.
Built from interlocking carved coral blocks with Qur'anic inscriptions cut directly into the stone, and a lacquered timber interior. On the UNESCO tentative list. Non-Muslim visitors need permission from the Ministry of Islamic Affairs, usually arranged through a guide.
The Islamic Centre's mosque, with a golden dome visible from the water, holding over 5,000 worshippers. Opened 1984 and the largest in the country.
The tomb of Abul Barakat Yusuf al-Barbari, the Moroccan or Somali traveller traditionally credited with bringing Islam to the Maldives in 1153. Beside the Old Friday Mosque.
A small 1815 coral-stone mosque used for the Eid prayers, in the old quarter near the Friday mosque.
A 17th-century coral-stone mosque on a local island, notable because Fenfushi was the island whose stonemasons carved much of the country's coral architecture.
In the far south, beside a cemetery with coral headstones said to be among the oldest Islamic graves in the country.
The main mosque of the reclaimed island beside the airport, convenient for anyone staying there before a flight.
Every inhabited island, however small, has a mosque at its centre with an ablution area, and the call to prayer structures the day. Visitors are welcome to pray.
In Sultan Park, covering the pre-Islamic Buddhist period, the conversion in 1153, the sultanate, the Portuguese occupation and independence. Modest but the only place to get the history.
The shrine of the traveller credited with the country's conversion to Islam in 1153 - the single most historically significant site in the Maldives.
A building tradition using cut and carved coral blocks fitted without mortar, with lacquered woodwork inside. Found nowhere else, and on the UNESCO tentative list.
The wooden palace of Sultan Muhammad Thakurufaanu, who led the rebellion that ended the Portuguese occupation in 1573. In the far north.
A UNESCO biosphere reserve where hundreds of manta rays and whale sharks gather to feed between May and November. Strictly managed - snorkelling only, limited numbers.
Traditional Maldivian drumming and dance, African in origin, performed on local islands and at resorts, building from slow chanting to a very fast finish.
Maldivian cooking is fish, coconut and chilli, with Sri Lankan and South Indian influence. Everything on inhabited islands is halal; there is no pork in the country outside the licensed resorts.
Shredded smoked tuna with grated coconut, onion, chilli and lime, eaten with roshi flatbread. The national breakfast.
A clear tuna broth served with rice, lime, chilli and onion. Plain, restorative and the most traditional Maldivian dish.
A thick brown tuna paste, the reduced residue of boiling tuna for hours. Intensely savoury, eaten as a condiment, and utterly Maldivian.
Whole reef fish scored, rubbed with chilli paste and grilled over coconut husks. Usually the catch from that afternoon.
Tuna curry with coconut milk, curry leaves and Maldivian chilli - closer to Sri Lankan than Indian cooking.
The afternoon tea tradition - gulha, bajiya, masroshi, keemia. Small fried or steamed savouries, mostly tuna and coconut, eaten with black tea.
A samosa-like pastry filled with tuna, cabbage and boiled egg. The best of the short eats.
Unleavened flatbread cooked on a griddle, the base of most Maldivian meals.
Sago pudding with coconut milk and rose water, the standard Maldivian dessert and a Ramadan staple.
Raa is sweet unfermented palm toddy, drunk fresh in the morning. Fresh coconut water is everywhere and costs almost nothing.
Strong black tea with sugar, drunk with short eats in the afternoon in every island teashop.
Jobfish, snapper, grouper and tuna, caught by handline that day. The quality is the single best thing about eating in the Maldives.
Most local island guesthouses serve three meals, usually Maldivian and international, with the day's catch grilled in the evening. Half board is the normal arrangement and the food is better than the price suggests.
A long-running garden café in the capital with Maldivian and Western dishes and famous ice cream. A pleasant break from Male's density.
Maldivian and Asian cooking in the centre of Male, reliable and popular with locals at lunch.
A rooftop restaurant with a view over the harbour, doing Maldivian dishes alongside an international menu.
The hotels on Male and Hulhumale serve halal food throughout; the mainland is dry, unlike the resorts.
The Maldivian institution - a room with formica tables where men drink black tea and eat short eats in the afternoon. A dollar or two, and the best local food anywhere.
The busiest local island has a dozen guesthouse restaurants along the beach road, all alcohol-free, doing grilled fish and curries.
Some local islands have a licensed boat moored offshore serving alcohol to tourists, outside the island's jurisdiction. Worth knowing about so you can avoid or find them as you prefer.
Resorts serve halal meat as standard given the Maldivian staff and the Gulf clientele, but also serve pork and alcohol. Several resorts market themselves explicitly to Muslim travellers - ask before booking.
Not a restaurant, but the best hour in the capital - yellowfin tuna landed and cut on the waterfront in the late afternoon.
A row of cafés along the reclaimed island's public beach, alcohol-free, useful for an airport layover.
Guesthouses grill the day's catch on an uninhabited sandbank at sunset. The best meal of most Maldives trips.
The adhan from the island mosque is the clock on a local island. Every inhabited island has a mosque with ablution facilities and visitors are welcome to pray.
| Where | Prayer facilities |
|---|---|
| Velana International Airport | Prayer rooms in both the international and domestic terminals with ablution facilities. |
| Every inhabited island | At least one mosque per island, with ablution facilities, open for all five prayers. Shops and offices close briefly at each prayer time. |
| Male | Dozens of mosques including the Grand Friday Mosque, and the Islamic Centre. Male is dense enough that one is always within a few minutes. |
| Resorts | Most resorts have a prayer room for staff, and will direct guests to it. Some resorts marketing to Gulf travellers provide guest prayer rooms and qibla markers. |
| Excursion boats | Dhoni crews are Maldivian and Muslim; they know the qibla and will accommodate prayer on longer trips. |
| Guesthouses | Qibla markers and mats are standard on local islands, where the staff are local and Muslim. |
| Friday prayers | Local islands close almost entirely between about 11.30am and 1.30pm on Friday. Excursions are scheduled around it. |
Three options: a guesthouse on an inhabited island, a resort island, or a liveaboard boat. Only the first puts you in Maldivian society, and it costs a fraction of the second.
The busiest and most developed local island, 90 minutes by speedboat from Male, with dozens of guesthouses, dive centres, a bikini beach and excursions daily. The easiest introduction.
Small, exceptionally clean - it runs a well-known waste management programme - with a good house reef and a quiet, conservative village.
A long island with a three-kilometre sandbank and the best access to the resident whale sharks of South Ari. Quiet and good for divers.
Fulidhoo for nurse sharks and stingrays in the harbour at night; Thoddoo for watermelon farms and a genuinely rural island.
A reclaimed island with a long public beach, cheap hotels, a bridge to Male and ten minutes to the airport. Useful for late arrivals and early flights.
One resort per island, with overwater villas, house reefs and full board. Expensive, and licensed for alcohol. Several market explicitly to Muslim travellers with prayer rooms and private pool villas.
Seven to ten nights moving between atolls with three or four dives a day. The best way to dive the country, and several operators run alcohol-free boats.
Dense, hot and with no beach, but the only place with the mosques, the museum and the fish market. One night is enough.
The widest price range of any destination in this guide - local islands and resorts differ by a factor of ten. All figures are per person per day unless stated, excluding international flights.
| Item | Budget | Mid-range | Premium |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | USD 50-90 (guesthouse) | USD 150-300 | USD 800-3,000 (resort) |
| Food (3 meals) | USD 20-35 | USD 50-90 | Included (full board) |
| Transfers (return) | USD 50-100 (speedboat) | USD 150-250 | USD 400-700 (seaplane) |
| Excursions | USD 30-60 (sandbank) | USD 80-150 (whale shark) | USD 300+ (private) |
| Diving (2 tanks) | USD 90-130 | USD 140-190 | USD 250+ |
| Daily total per person | USD 100-160 | USD 250-450 | USD 1,000+ |
Two monsoons. The northeast (dry) runs roughly November to April and the southwest (wet) May to October, though the Maldives is never cold and rain is usually short.
| Period | Weather | Verdict for a halal trip |
|---|---|---|
| November-April | 28-31C, dry, calm seas | The main season. Clear water, flat seas, best visibility for diving. Peak prices over Christmas, New Year and February. |
| May-July | 28-31C, wetter, windier | Rain in short bursts, choppier crossings, and much lower prices. Hanifaru Bay's manta season begins. |
| August-October | 28-31C, wet | The wettest months and the cheapest. Manta aggregations at Hanifaru peak, and surf season is at its best in the central atolls. |
| Whale sharks, year-round | Any | South Ari atoll has a resident whale shark population all year, unlike most destinations where they are seasonal. |
The questions Muslim travellers ask most often before booking.